
Novillero Valentin dodges a bull while with his red muleta in hand. Both the young bullfighter and the bull are locked into a risky dance.
Text and photos by Surya Vaidy
If there’s one thing I can say about bullfighting, it’s this: it is as beautiful as it is harrowing. It’s a pas-de-deux between two individuals. One is dressed in an intricate uniform with a red muleta (the large red flag carried by bullfighters) and sword; the other is hundreds of pounds of muscle and frustration crowned with wickedly sharp horns. Grim and brutal, but so elegant and vivacious at the same time.
I did not expect to be granted a pass to the floor of the ancient Roman amphitheatre in Arles — a genuine stroke of luck that was a mixture of our guide, Marie-Anne Devaux, expertly convincing the officials and a heavy amount of begging on my part. I was standing with coaches, older bullfighters and the young novilleros (bullfighters who have not yet earned official ranks). The young fighters were the stars of the show that night.
I still have a hard time processing the fact that most of the participants were a few years younger than me, with many in their late teens. Watching them engage in the violent duet with the bull was something I will never forget, especially because I could see it all at eye level. I felt as though I was in the ring myself, holding my breath as the young fighters dodged, thrust their swords or were hit by the bull. It was an adventure and a learning experience to witness.
Marie-Anne Devaux served as the interpreter for this photo story.