{"id":600,"date":"2023-07-14T07:56:05","date_gmt":"2023-07-14T07:56:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2023arles\/?p=600"},"modified":"2025-07-11T07:24:44","modified_gmt":"2025-07-11T07:24:44","slug":"cultivating-bulls-and-tourists-in-the-camargue","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/cultivating-bulls-and-tourists-in-the-camargue\/","title":{"rendered":"Cultivating bulls \u2013and tourists \u2013 in the Camargue"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Story and photos by Alexie Zollinger<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At the Manade des Baumelles in the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.informationfrance.com\/la-camargue\/\">Camargue region<\/a> of the South of France, the sound of cowbells clanking breaks up the numbing noise from the cicadas, and distant exclamations can be heard coming from two employees. The hollers are tracked to two men, the older one giving instructions to the younger, who is hard at work, with irritated mosquito bites covering his legs from long days in the marshy wetlands of the region.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The men step between slim planks of wood about a foot wide, laid across a corral holding three large Camargue bulls, idolized in the region due to their importance in traditional <a href=\"https:\/\/www.marvellous-provence.com\/activities-and-sports\/bull-games-in-the-camargue\">bullfighting and bull games<\/a>. The men take turns carrying large double braided ropes through the slats, leaning their bodies back in order to apply the weight needed to lead the hefty animals beneath. They explain they are trying to attach a label to the ears of the bulls as a way to recognize bulls of their herd before the main event; they will run the bulls through the region on horseback, a well known and popular tradition in the Camargue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"812\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2023arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollingerproject3-812x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-640\" srcset=\"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollingerproject3-812x1024.jpg 812w, https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollingerproject3-238x300.jpg 238w, https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollingerproject3-768x969.jpg 768w, https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollingerproject3-1218x1536.jpg 1218w, https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollingerproject3-1624x2048.jpg 1624w, https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollingerproject3-scaled.jpg 2030w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 812px) 100vw, 812px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">A 16-year-old intern at the  Manade des Baumelles helps wrangle bulls beneath him in order to place tracking labels on them.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Since the 16th century, the Camargue has been at the roots of established traditions in the region. With 360 square miles of sprawling farm land, its primary economic function, up until about 50 years ago, was as pasture for white Camargue horses, and breeding grounds and caring for bulls for the purpose of bullfighting and bull games. Now, the jobs of the Camargue\u2019s inhabitants have changed\u2013 in addition to herding bulls, they are also herding tourists.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The Camargue is Western Europe\u2019s largest river delta. In it lie 150 <em>manades<\/em> or ranches, dedicated to the raising and care of Camargue bulls and horses. The Camargue has often been called the \u201cwild west of France,\u201d with the <em>manadiers<\/em> its ranchers and the <em>gardians<\/em> its cowboys.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>When the Camargue traditions started, these modern-day heroes were no more than agricultural laborers, and many of the inhabitants of the Camargue lived in poverty. It wasn\u2019t until the late 19th century that nobleman <a href=\"https:\/\/france-amerique.com\/camargue-the-french-wild-west\/\">Marquis de Baroncelli<\/a>, infatuated with the Camargue&#8217;s beautiful scenery and inspired by the <em>gardians<\/em>&#8216; dedication to the land, swore to elevate these men, and promote them as protectors of the land. This status remains intact today \u2013 but many aspects of these traditions have changed.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Throughout history, and up until about 50 years ago, <em>gardians<\/em> lived in the Camargue in traditional <a href=\"https:\/\/www.avignon-et-provence.com\/en\/traditions\/gardians-cabin-camargue\"><em>cabanes de<\/em><\/a><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/www.avignon-et-provence.com\/en\/traditions\/gardians-cabin-camargue\" target=\"_blank\"><em> gardian<\/em><\/a>, small whitewashed homes made from materials often found in the Camargue \u2013 walls made from mud and stone, roofs made from reeds and sewn together with iron-weaved thread, and topped with limestone at the point. The homes are very small, with only one room and an open air fireplace for warmth and a small living space. Now, these homes are almost all renovated or built new, and listed as <a href=\"https:\/\/www.masdesrieges.fr\/en\/guardians-cabin\/\">vacation rentals<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.airbnb.co.nz\/rooms\/48678364?source_impression_id=p3_1688640224_odAJkLjMt%2BWyiGJw\">Airbnbs<\/a>, for upwards of $200\/night in peak tourism season.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The biggest building on any <em>manade<\/em> would have housed the <em>manadier<\/em> and his family in the 19th century, and would be made of stone. Now, they primarily serve as reception areas or small hotels for tourists, who visit the Camargue to see the legendary black bulls and white horses, and learn about the origins of bull games and bull fighting.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Due to this popularity, the job descriptions have changed for the <em>gardians<\/em> and <em>manadiers. <\/em>They often give informational tours of the <em>manade<\/em> to tourists, and <em>manadier<\/em>s also become hotel managers, balancing tourist bookings with the traditional practice of raising and caring for the vital heart of the <em>manade<\/em>\u2013the actual livestock.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"686\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2023arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollingerfinal02-686x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-641\" srcset=\"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollingerfinal02-686x1024.jpg 686w, https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollingerfinal02-201x300.jpg 201w, https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollingerfinal02-768x1146.jpg 768w, https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollingerfinal02-1029x1536.jpg 1029w, https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollingerfinal02-1372x2048.jpg 1372w, https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollingerfinal02-scaled.jpg 1715w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 686px) 100vw, 686px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Ronarn Faure,the sole <em>gardian<\/em> of the manade, says caring for the animals of the Camargue and protecting the traditions are his passion.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.manadedesbaumelles.fr\/\">The Manade des Baumelles<\/a> is a renovated <em>manade<\/em> complete with a hotel and two restaurants on the property. The <em>manade<\/em> offers horseback riding, tractor tours and other Camargue excursions.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The relationship is intertwined now, and everyone who is involved in the traditions of the Camargue has been forced to adapt to these changes over time. They have found that one cannot exist without the other. Emile Astruc, an employee in the <em>manade<\/em>, said, \u201cWithout tourism there is not enough money coming in to have the Camargue or the <em>gardians<\/em> or the hotel; everything does go to the Camargue.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Astruc believes all of the employees in the <em>manades<\/em> of the Camargue, whether they have an agricultural job or a job in hospitality, work in the <em>manade<\/em> because they are passionate about the traditions. She herself drives over an hour and a half from her home near Marseille every day at 6 a.m. to be in this position.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Faure is the sole employed <em>gardian<\/em> of the Manade des Baumelles, and has been working in the Camargue professionally for six years. As a child he devoted much of his time to volunteering, as the traditions of the land are his passion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Similarly to Astruc, Faure says that his career is a labor of love. \u201cWe don&#8217;t think about [it as a] job. I know that I work and that makes it my job, but it&#8217;s a passion because it&#8217;s never the same, because you see a lot of different things and because it&#8217;s pleasant.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>He says he is grateful for the increase in tourism, because it is thanks to tourists that he can keep his traditions alive, even if they have changed. Through tourism, Faure can continue to educate the public on the history and traditions of the Camargue. In modern times, in the face of so much <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/www.rfi.fr\/en\/france\/20221124-animal-cruelty-or-local-culture-bullfighting-ban-divides-france\" target=\"_blank\">opposition<\/a> to bull activities, Faure believes tourism helps spread the defense of the practices.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cIt&#8217;s scary,\u201d Faure said. &#8220;It is true that today there are people who are fighting to have all that abolished. And it&#8217;s true that likewise, if that were to be the case, we wouldn&#8217;t work anymore and there wouldn&#8217;t be any point in raising bulls.It is important to preserve working with a wild animal in the wild and to make a difference, and to perpetuate the traditions around the horse and the bull.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Faure said his hope is for \u201ctraditions [to] continue\u2026 and to manage to make people understand that this must continue, that [bull] breeding is made to make this show and that we should not fight against [it.]<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Roles have adapted to incorporate tourists, but it is through tourist dollars that the traditions are intact, and it is through educating tourists that the traditions can continue to be celebrated, said Faure.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cIt&#8217;s not just a story of money,\u201d said Faure. \u201cNo, tourism is also important to share our culture.\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Story and photos by Alexie Zollinger At the Manade des Baumelles in the Camargue region of the South<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":17,"featured_media":642,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_uf_show_specific_survey":0,"_uf_disable_surveys":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[93,21],"tags":[16,76,74,75],"class_list":["post-600","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-environment","category-traditions","tag-bullfighting","tag-cabane-de-gardian","tag-camargue","tag-gardians"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Zollinger-featured.jpeg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/600","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/17"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=600"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/600\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":737,"href":"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/600\/revisions\/737"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/642"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=600"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=600"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/projects.ieimedia.com\/2025arles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=600"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}