Postcards

Growing Up in Smoke

Text by Lydia Perez
Photo by Malcolm Taylor

During the second week of my month in Arles, on a warm morning shortly before noon, I set out to take photos with a classmate. As we were getting ready to go and my classmate was packing up her camera equipment, we saw a little group of boys running around in the street. The oldest boy there, slumped over in a white shirt and shorts, was smoking a cigarette. 

My classmate and I were in complete shock to see the boy, who looked to be about 10 years old, smoking a cigarette around the other little kids. In the United States, it’s not common for people, particularly little kids, to smoke cigarettes. As I’ve walked around Arles, I always find at least one person with a cigarette in their mouth followed by a cloud of smoke.

In the United States, it’s a bit more common for middle schoolers to start consuming cannabis. That still shocks me. But not as much as seeing the little boy in Arles letting out a puff of smoke.

We were hoping the boy wouldn’t influence the other little boys around him to start smoking. But a week later, as I was walking home with the same classmate, we saw the boy who had been smoking again on the same street. We also saw one of the other little boys down the street. He looked to be around 5 years old and was behind a trash can that was a bit taller than him. He had a heartwarming smile.

“Oh no, is it a vape?” my classmate asked.

Sure enough, the little boy put his fist toward his mouth and two seconds later smoke came out of his mouth. As soon as the cloud of smoke blew out into the air, my heart shattered. I’d never seen a child that young vaping.

At home, when people want to smoke a cigarette, a vape pen or even a marijuana joint, they usually ask others around them if they’re comfortable with the smoking. However, the times I’ve been out to restaurants or walking around in Arles, people casually pull out a cigarette and just light it up. I find myself wondering just what are the limits on smoking here.

People, Postcards

Finding Home in a Foreign Land

By Rae Daniels-Henderson

Coming to France for the first time, I felt anxiety about how my four-week experience was going to play out. My terrible French speaking skills and American caricatures of the French people as stuck-up and impatient weighed very heavily on my chest.

I am the first in my family to travel abroad, let alone study abroad for a month. My fear of the unknown and my family’s fear of me traveling for so long added stress I didn’t realize I had until I arrived in Arles. 

But I have sighed my biggest ever mental sigh of relief because I have actually found a sense of home in Arles. 

Our first day in Arles, when my classmate, Judas, and I got lunch, I fumbled my words asking for a bottle of water. I soon became extremely embarrassed but was immediately put at ease when the server gave me an impromptu French lesson, pointing and translating with the warmest smile almost as if she was doing this to include me so I could better understand the culture.

That felt like my official welcome into this small community that has had iconic moments of history, including long visits from famous artists Paul Gaugin, Pablo Picasso and Vincent Van Gogh, and that was even a provincial capital of ancient Rome. 

A few days after that experience, the group was asked by Katie Thornton, the director at our language school, if we noticed any differences between our families at home and our host families. I realized I genuinely could not think of anything.

Dinners with my host family have been most recently on the patio during warm evenings with a musky yet sweet-scented incense burning to repel mosquitoes. That resembles my life back home with aromatic incense filling my dining and living room with an added sense of warmth. Both at home and in Arles everyone enjoys a meal, loud laughter, reminiscing, sharing stories and then breaking out into dance or the occasional funny-face exchange among siblings. 

I had already felt a sense of familiarity with my host mother, Françoise Meyer-Gardeur. But when she sat me and my other housemates from the program down one day and asked if we were comfortable with her, I realized she reminded me of my mother. The way that they both instill the courage in you to speak up to them about any concern, the showing of mutual respect to their children, and the genuine love, admiration and warmth that radiates from them are like the sun illuminating and bringing life to everything it touches.

My supportive Arlesian home on rue Jean Granaud has become my base to recharge and has given me confidence to explore more every day.

Even though I have been here for two weeks I now stop and occasionally have friendly conversations with people of this small community. Just as back home, I speak to people I see every day about their husbands, approaching traveling plans or even updates on pets. I have also experienced pleasant nods followed by a small smile and even little “Bonjours” if I accidentally lock eyes with someone while passing by on the street.

Apparently, I am getting a special welcome, because when I recount these interactions to my hosts, I get surprised and puzzled reactions. 

When my time comes to leave, I will miss this place immensely. I am grateful for the beaming Arlesian sun melting away my hesitation and fears, while I embrace it and all of its light and guidance through these cobblestone streets.

Postcards

Reflections by the Rhône

Narrative and photography by Elizabeth Coleman

A man walks along my windowsill every morning. His footsteps are slow and uneven, frequently stopping and turning backward but never retracing.

From my vantage point in the shaded corner of unfamiliar walls, I can’t see the path his feet make. I merely see him strolling, hands often clasped behind his back. One morning, I grew curious and slowly drifted away from the shaded corner toward the light trickling in through my window. The man grew larger and his feet became clear followed by four paws, worn with age, slowly tracing the man’s footsteps. 

Every morning, I watch the man cross my windowsill with his tiny companion. Every morning I recognize the love and the patience shared between the man and his companion. Every morning I better understand the importance of this ritual because one day, maybe someday soon, this man will cross my windowsill alone. 

Isn’t it inspiring?

A dream set in hazy air

Simple moments treated so precious, so delicate

Like a flower, tenderly cared after,

watered religiously,

allowed to flourish so

they burst into the streets.

During my brief time in Arles, I have witnessed the beauty in the attention Arlesiens place on wellbeing. Reflected in the colorful facades and floral streets, the quiet evenings, and whispered laughter, the Arlesien quality of life is rich beyond material possessions.

A thriving existence developed by dedicated stewardship of personal and communal habits and space, a relationship that is often disjointed in American society. Arlesiens take the time to feel human by protecting their moments and places of peace creating a welcoming and comforting environment for locals and visitors alike.

Maybe my experience as a temporary inhabitant allows me to have this fanciful view of Arles and its people, or maybe there is something truly special in the way life is nurtured here. 

As Americans, we have forgotten the art of resting, of healing through land and community, of experiencing a life that we cultivate and allow to flourish. Rather than merely surviving, we might find inspiration in the care shown for humanity here in Arles, a care that may allow us to thrive. To live among the flowers, in homes dedicated to rest, among communities that fill our cups, and with the time to stroll along winding paths at first light or beneath the stars accompanied by a loved one for as long as we have left.

Places, Postcards

The other city of light

Story and photo by Malcolm Taylor

I discovered my love for photography when my dad put his Canon F1 film camera in my 2-year-old hands. Coming to Arles, France, considered by some to be the photography capital of the world, is nothing short of a dream come true for me. 

To me, photography means a love for life and an expression of creativity. I consider my camera to be an extension of myself and a fundamental tool of my daily life. 

You can only imagine my excitement when this program in Arles was announced. I had found a chance to study and learn French, work with industry professionals, and meet other creatives – all in the capital of my passion.

Now in Arles, I understand why it is truly a photographer’s playground. Everywhere I look, I am surrounded by deep history, elaborate architecture and beautiful faces. Being in a new country for the first time, I feel a buzz of creativity that I wasn’t anticipating. 

When I delved deeper, I realized what had truly caught my eye—along with the eyes of centuries of artists. At the right hour of the day, an abundance of divine light washes over this former Roman provincial capital. Be it a gleaming drop, or a river of luminescence, this town is positively inundated with light. Light is the photographer’s water of life. Photo-graphy literally means light pictures. Without light, there are no pictures.

One day, I decided to try my hand at exploring street photography. After allowing myself to capture some intimate frames of Arles life bathed in the city’s distinctive light, I wandered into a quaint little shop by the name of La Valise Arlésienne.

Immediately, I was hit with the unique odor of old metal and brass equipment. The dry scent of old paper tickled my nose, and my stomach began to flutter out of pure joy. I had just walked into the most beautiful photography store I had even seen. For me, this was equivalent to stepping foot into a dream. Old photographs lined the walls, ancient camera equipment stared back at me with meticulously handcrafted glass. I felt at home. 

Patrick Gagey, the owner of the store, said that this is the biggest collection of old photographs for purchase in the world. The son of a photographer, he said that everyone in Arles is either a photographer or becomes a photographer.

Living in Arles has been a transformative experience for me. The light and vibrance of these streets have opened my mind to my beloved craft and have given depth to my perception of my field. I am thankful for this step forward in my creative journey.

Bruce Strong, one of my professors from Syracuse University, is teaching photography as part of this program. While we traversed Arles together one day, he imparted a new ability upon me. He asked me to focus my eyes on him, all while describing my surroundings. I slipped into a flow-like state as I described my surroundings:

A kid brushes past me from shadow into sunlight. A woman takes off her red hat and soaks in the blinding sun. A man picks up a bag from under a table and moves it into the light, showing its vibrant yellow color. A woman opens the blinds on a cafe window. Beautifully soft light pours over the cafe residents. 

With this new ability, I’m able to not just see light, but see how the world interacts with light.

Arts, Postcards

What Photography Taught a Fiction Writer

Text and photos by McCade Hayes

When I first arrived in Arles, I was not greeted by the sun. Rather, when I stepped off the train and into the small formerly Roman city, it was in the early night. I walked to my hostel, exhausted from the full day of travel and sweaty from carrying all of my belongings split between two backpacks. The walk through the night carried with it a mystique in the shadowy corners of the streets that my mind’s imagination began to fill in.

I came to Arles with the intention of making a first attempt at photography, in hopes that it would help to improve my primary craft, writing. After a conversation with Malcolm Taylor, my housemate and a photographer, I decided to take my photos in black and white. This is because taking photos in this style can help to exemplify the form and lighting of a scene. So in the city of Arles, home of the renowned Les Rencontres photography festival, and day-long amazing natural light, I set out to take photos. Here are some of the results.

This amplification of shadows and the form or silhouettes in my pictures, revealed something that I could apply in my writing craft. I found that by changing the camera exposure to darken the lighting while shooting in black and white, the photo’s tone flipped on its head. In the more exposed photos, the walls feel open and welcoming as the city of Arles actually feels.

In the under-exposed photo, the aesthetics changed to a more gothic and slightly unsettling photo that leaves the viewer feeling almost as though the walls close in around them and brings their eyes more towards the sky, or towards escape.

The lighter tones of this photo give a more open feeling to the walls of Arles. Photo by McCade Hayes.
In contrast to the image above, the less exposed photo of the same scene creates a feeling of oppression.

This idea has led me to a conclusion that light as part of setting should be used and exemplified at points within creative written works as well. For example, when setting a scene I can apply this knowledge by considering where in the setting I decide to place the reader’s point of view with considerations of form included. To expand on what I mean by form, the importance of objects, characters and other concepts in a scene is often dictated by the amount of words or space a description of that thing takes up on the page. This also can be applied in a less figurative way, where I describe the lighting in scenes to convey tone, importance, or meaning to the readers.

I was pushed far outside of my comfort zone in the first few weeks of working in this program. By changing my environment completely, down to the language that I am speaking, and the work that I am producing. I have been able to learn a lot about the common ground of creative writing and photography, especially in regards to establishing setting and tone, lessons that I can continue to practice and learn from even after this program.

Postcards

Notes of Chronically Stressed American Student Living in Arles

Text and photos by Surya Vaidy

Pick any random person who has known me for a decent amount of time and ask: Do you think Surya is stressed? The answer would be YES. I don’t say this to boast, to claim that I am somehow winning a competition because I am constantly stressed. Rather, I say it because I’m self-aware of the fact that I am awful at managing my work-life balance. I’ve wholly subscribed to the hustle culture that makes the modern era function — working crazy overtime, working through lunch and dinner, taking calls and responding to messages at all times of the day, etc. I’m a devotee of the hustle, much to the chagrin of my friends and family. Even my own doctor has kindly asked me to “please do better, buddy.” Easier said than done. 

When I applied to take an international journalism course abroad, I imagined I would simply transpose my lifestyle to France. The hustle would continue at all costs. 

Quickly I realized that this was not the case in a city like Arles. People here take their personal time very, very, very seriously. Everything moves at a leisurely pace. At first, it was so alien to me. Back home, I am always ready to work, constantly caffeinated and on-edge. Once in Arles, it was as though I decelerated from 1,000 to 10 miles per hour in a matter of 24 hours. 

It’s been more than two weeks since I’ve arrived in the beautiful city of Arles, and I’ve acquired a deep taste for the slow life. The life where I wake up at 8 a.m. and go for a walk, find a café that serves fresh croissants and strong coffee, and then sit outside watching the birds sing and fly overhead. It’s the life where, after working my required hours of work, I meander around the city watching others live the slow life, just absorbing my surroundings and watching people laugh and embrace each other in the night light. I finally feel like I have the time to do so. I haven’t felt this way in a long time. 

A bird flies far above Arles during the late afternoon.

Being in Arles is a reminder that I have time. It’s so simple a realization that I need to repeat it to myself constantly, because I’m afraid to forget it again. Being realistic, it’s not all play. Obviously, I still need to push myself to accomplish what I wish to do, especially when I have to return to America and go back to my usual schedule. But if there’s a lesson to be learned from Arles, it’s that you have to hold on to your own time with your own two hands, or it will constantly slip away or be taken up. 

When I return home, I believe it will be with a better sense of personal balance. I’ll take the effort to slow down and save some time for myself.

Environment, Postcards

Trash to treasure, the Rhône swallows it all

Photos and text by Thomas Murphy

As I walked along the Rhône during my first week in Arles, I noticed an old couch beneath the south end of the Pont de Trinquetaille. Beside it sat the remains of a Heineken 12-pack. I had clearly stumbled upon a local drinking spot, so I took out my camera and made a photo of the uniquely placed furniture. 

As I moved on from the couch, continuing down the side of the river, a man looked at me as he passed by. I thought nothing of this fellow pedestrian until I heard a loud splash from behind me. I turned to see the man walking away from the bridge and the couch floating in the Rhône.

With such an odd scene set before me, I jumped into action and began snapping pictures. Running up and down the many stairs leading to the water, I followed this cushioned raft until it began to slip beneath the surface of the Rhône.

As it sank, I began to think about what other random things could be sitting at the bottom of the massive river. I imagined layers of objects from throughout history making up the seabed, with modern-day garbage resting atop ancient relics. Turns out I wasn’t far off from reality.

The Arles-Rhône 3 is on display in the Musee departemental Arles antique.

When the Arles-Rhône 3 sank around 50 to 60 A.D., the transport ship was resigned to the depths of the Rhône River that cuts through the ancient city. It saw the light of day once again after a team from the Musée départemental Arles antique resurfaced the vessel as a part of a project to dredge up the countless relics lost to the river.

The ship is now on display in the center of a section showcasing the river’s treasures. It is surrounded by and filled with the amphoras, cut limestone and metal bricks that it once carried up and down the Rhône amongst other relics from the time.

The Roman Empire, under the rule of Julius Caesar, inducted Arles into the empire in 46 AD. This turned the city into a prominent sea-river port and spurred the expansion of the city,  which grew to include the arena, forum and amphitheater we see in the center of Arles today.

The Arles-Rhône 3, and other ships like it, were integral to the flow of trade in and out of Arles. The markings on much of the discovered lost cargo allowed archaeologists to form an idea of the trade networks that connected Arles to the Mediterranean, which reached Carrara in the North of Italy and the Iberian Peninsula.

Stonework from the Roman era is on display in the Musée départemental Arles antique.

Amazed by such wonderfully preserved pieces of humanity’s history, I began my walk back into town. As I strolled alongside the Rhône yet again, I was reminded of how the boys from the Arlesian family I’m living with and I had biked from a picnic party the night before, going through a thicket to find a small, eroding section of riverbank along the Rhône. 

There, we found a fire extinguisher floating within reach of the massive stick we had just pulled from a bush. We found that the extinguisher had expired in 2004. The fire extinguisher now sits on the floor of the shower in my host brothers’ bathroom. They intend to clean it and mount it on their wall.

A fire extinguisher is one of the newer relics salvaged from the Rhône River.

As I go over these memories in my mind, I am reminded of the peril that our world is in. Today, humanity continues leaving its mark on the Earth, creating a legacy that will show exactly how we lived our lives. Unfortunately, the legacy of our current era will not be of ancient wonder, but one of filth and reckless waste. Plastic and trash fills our rivers and seas, polluting them and choking life from the natural world. A couch sinks below the water’s surface. A fire extinguisher floats by. The rising waters eat away at the riverbank.

The world is experiencing change at an unprecedented rate because we are affecting it at a level never seen before in our history, but why is that? Recklessness. Humanity has acted upon this impulse for centuries, to burn whatever we have to in the interest of constant growth. A random passerby throwing a couch into a river embodies humanity’s comfort in a world where excessive waste is the norm and its destructive force is not fully recognized.

Postcards, Traditions

A Vegetarian Explores Arles

Text and photo by Ania Johnston

Vegetarianism is easy most places–you just need to get creative.

I recently stumbled over a curious fact posted by France Today: “Over 5% of the French population is vegetarian, compared with 10% in the United Kingdom, or up to 40% in India.” I guess what they were trying to say is that it’s a low percentage and ultimately it’s pretty hard to survive here as a herbivore. But in my experience, it’s easier to get vegetarian food than to explain my vegetarianism to locals.

Here is my brief guide to navigating the land of vegetarian scarcity. I hope that you’ll find it very French and very veggie-friendly. 

1: Prioritize eating at home over restaurants. 

My first day here in Arles, I found out that I had been matched to a vegetarian host family. Since that day, they have cooked only one meal with meat as the main dish — chicken — primarily because they had meat-eating guests over. My first night in Arles, I was treated with a gorgeous rice-based meal with tofu and asparagus. I couldn’t complain. 

You may not find yourself in such a lucky situation. So, I suggest the second you step off your train–jet-lagged and sweltering from the high-noon heat–put your bags down in your Airbnb and go out looking for your local patisserie, fromagerie, then a cheeky little cave à vin. (I didn’t say I would be appealing to the gluten-free or dairy-free here. You all may be out of luck.)

In my case, I was able to find this fantastic Bio store right in downtown Arles by the LUMA. It’s got everything you’d ever need and more and I suggest you stock up because living on Mediterranean time means that from noon to 2 pm, and on Sunday, most grocery stores will be closed.

2: If you have to go to restaurants it’s easy!

Ordering anxiety is real. Vegetarian options are real too. You got this.

Start thinking like a local rather than a tourist. The classic dish in Arles (and allegedly the entire south of France) is gardiane de taureau–bull stew. It comes from the tradition of bullfighting, and it is NOT veg-friendly. Duh. Luckily, no one is making you order this, and there are plenty of other options.

One thing that tourists might find confusing here is the formule also known as the “deal meal.” This typically includes a main dish, a coffee, and a dessert, and it comes at a fixed price. These are rarely vegetarian so if you find yourself at a restaurant that has their big formule on display, ask for the menu!

During lunch hours this dish is usually most popular and some restaurants may not offer up the menu right away. I promise you, however, the menu will include a nice salad (maybe even with some local olives and burrata.) If you find yourself unable to locate any veggie mains, one of my favorite tricks is getting an assortment of appetizers. It’s especially fun in a big group and if you order the grande planche (large board) you’ll be able to satiate your meat-lover friends too.

3. Get creative with it!

You don’t have to be boring to be vegetarian. It’s not all salads and grazing– especially in a Mediterranean hub like France! 

One of my favorite things to do is visit the Arles farmer’s market on Wednesday or Saturday mornings and just have a field day with the various stands. “Je voudrais…”

I often go to an olive stand that my French instructor showed us our first week in Arles and I love to get the spicy olives and the garlic ones. Just like every other Mediterranean dish they are covered in oil and Herbes de Provence and they are so tasty. The best thing is to get some brie, grab yourself a baguette, even some fougasse and indulge in fresh tomatoes or peppers.

A little bundle of strawberries isn’t all that bad for dessert either. Once you’ve gathered your goods take a walk to the Parc des Ateliers and find a shady patch of grass. 

Bon appetit!

Arts, Traditions

Arles tunes in

By The Arles Project Staff

Arlesians gathered in the city’s many plazas to enjoy performances from local musicians and students June 21 as part of the nationwide Fête de la Musique.

”It’s alive,” said Arles resident and music student Maria Del Mar. “It is the moment to be. You are concentrating on what you are doing and people are watching and feeling you and exchanging with you.”

Dancers at Place Genive. Photo by Thomas Murphy.

Fête de la Musique has annually animated French streets every June 21 since 1982.

This year, students from Conservatoire du Pays d’Arles, a local music school, showcased their musical talents at Le Capitole in La Roquette.

The eldest of the three sisters, Judith, aspires to specialize in classical music. However, for her, the fun is in the familial aspect of her musical endeavors. “It’s very nice playing with my sisters because I can help them. I really like when we can practice together and play all together.”

Judith and Madeleine Drilleau. Photo by Elizabeth Coleman

Helping her band, The Sheshs, set up, Lisa Guibaud said that this festival is great for the city because it attracts even more tourists to Arles. “It makes the city alive, so it is really cool,” Guibaud said. 

At La Place Voltaire, children gathered to watch and even perform. “If I am in France and there is la Fête de la Musique, I go” said Yodit Kebede, the mother of a young performer. Kebede has been attending the festival since her own childhood.

Children were as engaged as their parents. Photo by Solange Jain.

Young students from a nearby music school came out to perform hit classic rock songs such as “Boys Don’t Cry” by The Cure and “Sultans of Swing” by Dire Straits.

“I think people are drawn to the rhythm,” said Marco Xavier, who was taking in the scene. “Our bodies have a rhythm, too.” This sentiment was also seen in the west end of La Roquette, where residents gathered to sing, dance, and enjoy delicious food. Among the songs sung by the assembled choir was one titled “Gentrifica,” a song that expressed local frustrations with the rising costs of housing due to the spread of Airbnbs.

Guitar detail. Photo by Malcolm Taylor.

Liam Franceschi is a twelve-year-old student at Studio Franceschi, a music studio in Arles, France. He has a variety of talents, including playing the piano, electric guitar and singing, which he has been doing for five years and counting. “I started singing by myself and wanted to start learning the lyrics and sing with other people,” Franceschi said.

His father, the director of the school, has taught him many skills. Liam doesn’t have a favorite genre to play or sing to, but he does not enjoy French rap as much.

Liam Franceschi and a fellow band member. Photo by Karla Valdez.

The celebration brought a stream of business to cafes and restaurants such as Floris Artisan Glacier in the Place de Republique. “It is the opening of the season, it is the moment where people start to come and all and it is a festivity when all the bars and restaurants start to organize everything,” said Pascal Jeom-Phillipe.

Left to right: Bruno Arnold, Pascal Jeom-Philippe and Edwin Noel. Photo by Sophia Maxim.

The day ended with a collective concert held by Rockette Records in front of the Saint-Trophime Primital Church in Place de la République, with flashing lights, and fog for a rave. The featured performers were Makassa, Vax Populi, Bison Bison Falling Down, Salah, and DJ Transition. The energy of the crowd was electrifying with people standing on top of each other and screaming their hearts out all night long.

The evening ended with a blast. Photo by Autumn DeGrazia.

Video by Hannah Levitan

Reported by Thomas Murphy, Karla Valdez, McCade Hayes, Morgan Lily Neuhauser, Lydia Perez, and Judas Wiley. Featured image by Surya Vaidy.

Politics

Leftist politicians speak at Arles demonstration

Story by Sofia Langlois
Photos by Thomas Murphy
Video by Sophia Maxim

Citizens of Arles in support of a new left-wing coalition gathered at Place de la République on June 22. Theirs was one of many recent protests across France opposing the far-right Rassemblement National in a contest for control of the National Assembly.

The event provided an opportunity for leftist political candidates to take aim not only at the National Rally but at incumbent President Emmanuel Macron. 

“He is not interested in Arles,” said Nicolas Koukas of the French Communist Party, who is running for the 16th electoral district of the Bouches-du-Rhône. “And we need to have in the country elected territorial officials who know people, who know their worries, who know their problems.”

Koukas is a candidate of the Nouveau Front Populaire, a wide-ranging leftist alliance formed on June 10 in response to Macron’s decision to dissolve the National Assembly. The organizations involved include La France Insoumise, Les Écologistes, Place Publique, the French Communist Party and the French Socialist Party, among others. 

The Nouveau Front Populaire formed in opposition to the Rassemblement National, a right-wing French nationalist party that promotes populist and anti-immigrant values. It was founded by politician Jean-Marie Le Pen in 1972 and was formerly known as the Front National. The party gained popularity after it acquired a less extremist image under the leadership of his daughter, Marine Le Pen.

Protestors sheltered under umbrellas while listening to candidates, including Nicolas Koukas (facing the crowd, second from right,) Photo by Thomas Murphy.

In the European Union elections of June 6, the right wing gained seats in delegations of many of the 27 member countries. In France, the centrist Renaissance Party, led by Macron, received 14.6% of the vote, significantly defeated by the Rassemblement National, which received 31.6% of the vote.

Macron dissolved the National Assembly, thus launching early legislative elections in France. The two rounds of voting will take place on June 30 and July 7.

Koukas, a citizen of Arles, delivered an impassioned speech at the June 22 protest. “Where is [Macron] in the fights?” he asked. “Where is he in the struggle?” Koukas suggested Macron’s administration had neglected public services such as the Arles Hospital and Miramas’ public freight service.

Koukas encouraged the people of Arles to push for a selection of government officials who have their interests at heart. He accused the president of neglecting Arles as a prominent city in the nation. 

“He is not there. He is nowhere. He is elsewhere,” said Koukas.

Macron’s presidential term ends in 2027 and left-wing supporters are trying to prevent Le Pen from entering government. If the far right gains a majority, the president would likely appoint Jordan Bardella as prime minister, granting him limited authority over domestic and economic affairs. Bardella would serve under the terms of cohabitation laws, which gives the position to the party with the majority of seats in the National Assembly.

As a means of preventing conservative politicians such as Le Pen and Bardella from holding office, those in opposition took to protesting. The movement quickly gained traction and demonstrations have been held in several cities.

Koukas concluded his speech by promoting the Nouveau Front Populaire. He emphasized that its leadership does not define the group but rather the citizens who support the left-wing values it was built on. 

“We will be there to defend,” Koukas said. “That is what brings us together today and what makes us strong because the Popular Front is not Christophe or Nicolas. The popular front is you.”

Sophia Maxim contributed to this report.

Featured image: Nouveau Front Populaire candidate Nicolas Koukas and others march on rue Gambetta in Arles. Photo by Thomas Murphy.

An international reporting project co-sponsored by ieiMedia and Arles à la carte.